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so this is my fully 3D Printed Iron Man MK85 Cosplay. I ’ megabyte very gallant 🙂@Frankly_Built on Instagram I started 3D print just over a year ago after seeing Avengers Endgame to make this suit entirely and it got a little out of hand. As one started to research and homework and finally print/build I realized how few resources existed for 3D Printed cosplays to this level. It was very disperse. Any YouTube tutorials and series either never finished or brushed over thus much it was more of a demonstration. And Jesus, are people secretive about their strap and harness systems. so one began to document everything I could and share all the things I was learning to great reception. It ’ south been such an amaze travel so far and i can ’ deoxythymidine monophosphate thank the godhead community enough for all the help ! so hopefully this is my manner to give something back to the next person looking to make a humble dream come dependable .@Frankly_Built on Instagram@Frankly_Built on Instagram I ’ megabyte not excessively sure on where to precisely start thus I ’ ll try on to summarize what one think is each aspect of this suit and build. Along with the reasons I did certain things. here we go !
What do you need to do this ? How hard is 3D printing ? Do you need to know how to design ? Draft ? Paint ? Wire ? What does into this ? To be honest you don ’ deoxythymidine monophosphate very need to know much of anything to start. While certain skills obviously put you ahead in some aspects nothing I ’ ve needed to do through this was something that took months or years to learn. I ’ ve grown up with a heavy setting in the car world. I ’ meter very familiar with 12v electronics, painting and bodywork. I ’ ve besides been building Gundam Models for YEARS so working with formative and little details is second gear nature. But again, this only gives me a fountainhead start, not an advantage in any way. now, being comfortable using a calculator and possibly have a rebuff mechanical inclination will pay out in spades but this all boils down to commitment level. It ’ s not CAN you do this but how much do you WANT to do this. Once you take the dive and beginning ; that ’ s it. Game on !
3D print technology has made a quantum leap in the past few years. It ’ mho cheap ! With an q uality printer being less that $ 200 ! And yes ! People make entire suits with that individual little printer ! immediately, i wouldn ’ thymine commend that however. While you CAN do it, you will drastically increase the sum of prints, the come of parts you need to fuse binding in concert, the total of clock time spent print and much more. It ’ s not impossible but not very virtual. I HIGHLY suggest a printer around 300 X 300 X 400 build volume. I personally went with the Creality CR-10S but other similar volumes exist across Creality and other brands like Artillery, Tevo, and Sunlu. Do your research ! But please do not fall into the trap that so many others do ! This is inactive a growing hobby ! These are ENTRY level hobby printers ! No, they don ’ t need to be 100 % assembled like the Anet A8 ( nor do they catch fire like the A8 ) they hush have a eruditeness curl that some aren ’ t ready for. They aren ’ t an appliance like a microwave or a tool like a power drill. They don ’ metric ton always “ barely work ” they take some fourth dimension to understand and learn. But by no means are they HARD to learn ; again it boils down to commitment and drive. And let me tell you about the 3D Printing residential district ; it ’ second HUGE ! thus many people are will to help and talk and guide you through about anything. Dozens of facebook groups and forums to browse to help you get cook before you even make the leverage. If you would like a quick summation of what goes INTO 3D Printing you can watch this video recording one made : How to 3D print ! But don ’ triiodothyronine stop there ! Check out more resources like The 3D Printing Nerd and Makers Muse ! My top 2 current recommendations for printing a Cosplay armor that placid remains novice friendly are : Creality CR-10 V2
Creality Ender-5 PLUS
How much are the programs ? Are they expensive ? Nope ! They ’ ra free ! Well most of them are. And actually ? They ’ rhenium VERY easy to use ! I went with an amazing course of study called Ultimaker Cura. Very drug user friendly. COUNTLESS tutorials for it and frequent updates. But what does this program do ? Well to take a 3D file and make it into a 3D photographic print you need to convert it into G-Code. This is a hanker written code that tells the printer precisely what to do not unlike a CNC. It traces out the path the printer must follow in order to by rights build the 3D part in the veridical. If you want to see a little preview of how Cura works check out this television ! You can besides look into other programs like Simplify3d and Prusa Slicer But you may need another type of software as well. Some 3D files are obviously besides large to fit on a printer. You need a Cutting platform ! now i vary between 2 different ones. The first is Slic3r. This is a very basic broadcast and actually is the same type of course of study as Cura except doesn ’ thymine employment a well. What it DOES do well is let you view the 3D parts in a debauched more open distance and make “ flat cuts ” or straight cuts in the XYZ positions to help chop up 3D files ! But if you need to get more advance and accurate you can use Meshmixer ! Another free program that is more for organic modeling but holds a great plane cut feature ! You can download Cura, Slic3r and Meshmixer all for detached and begin messing with the programs immediately ! head to Thingiverse.com or Cults3D.com to grab release 3D files to play with !
Where do you get files from ? Are they free ? How much ? Some 3D files are free, some aren ’ deoxythymidine monophosphate. A very basic principle of finger is you get what you pay for. And if you didn ’ thyroxine pay for them don ’ triiodothyronine expect excessively a lot. now that ’ s not to say people don ’ deoxythymidine monophosphate share and mail AMAZING files for free but few people release entire armor file sets. normally you have to pay a fiddling for them which make sense ! person put a lot of clock time and attempt into them ( normally ). You can find 3D suits and files scattered all over places like Etsy, CGtrader.com, Patreon.com, DO3D.com, and more ! But places like Thingiverse.com and Cults3D.com host many for release ! therefore wanted the MK85. It was beautiful. From the more brawny shape to the original Ditka armor callbacks i knew it was the one I wanted. I did a fortune of searching trying to find the right files and it brought me to DO3D.com. This is where one got my hands on The Mark 85 Armor Files and The MK85 Infinity Gauntlet. And late on in the build after I had printed many versions of the MK85 Helmet trying to find the perfective one ( The DO3D one was lacking sadly ) I discovered this jewel. The beautifully made MK85 by Akira Yumming. It was the most screen accurate model iodine had found. It ’ s those blasted eyes. But what ’ mho included in 3D files ? Do they fit them for you ? How do you know what size to make them ? This leads me to the next subject .
What ’ mho it printed in ? Plastic ? Is it strong ? Did you reinforce it ? Will it melt in the sun ? much argument exists for the proper filament to use. then many brands with so many variations. The standard most normally used plastic when print is PLA credit card. It ’ sulfur bum. Easy to work with. And actually non-toxic when printing it ! early printable material exist such as ABS, PETG, TPU and more. They all have pros and cons so do your research when hunt ! Basically ABS is a much stronger credit card but unvoiced to print ( needs a heated envelop quad ), PETG is besides potent, no enclosure but can be identical catchy to print with. And TPU is a flexible arctic type material bang-up for joints. credibly one of the hardest things to print with. I myself stumbled upon a clean little hidden mysterious ( at the time it was still emerging ) margin call PLA+. now don ’ metric ton ask me what the difference is because depending on the manufacturer you get different answers. There exist no regulations however on what substantial dispute needs to be added to standard PLA to give it these properties. Some brands make it have a higher melt temp, others alter it ’ second intensity. Whatever the sheath may be always get some and test it before commiting. PLA has a identical low melting temp and can warp in direct sunlight or in a hot car. But PLA+ has a higher melt temp which can widen that col. besides let ’ randomness be practical here ; Don ’ thyroxine leave your stuff in a hot car. PETG and ABS will pretty much never warp normal hot environments. sol pluck your poison !
This is the achilles heel of closely everyone who make their first printed armor. Scaling. early on i made one big choice. And one adhere with it the entire clock. I refused to have my Iron Man costume look like a bobble promontory. now one ’ m not trying to insult or call anyone out and this by no mean accounts for everyone. I get it. We aren ’ deoxythymidine monophosphate built like superheros ; particularly MCU Iron man with the impossibly long legs and humble shank. But you see it happen. People begin to scale the armour down to fit them more cozy but expect. You want the helmet to open and you want electronics for the eyes. You on the spur of the moment need to make the helmet bigger to fit everything. You make the arms super skinny because you don ’ triiodothyronine work out like Chris Evans ( or at all ). You shorten the stage because you ’ rhenium 5ft but you need to be able to walk in the suit properly. And boom. Iron botch Head. It ’ sulfur arduous to get by without making some major sacrifices. If I was going to put the time into this ; I wanted it to look proper. Luckily DO3D had my back…Kind of. When you get 3D suit files sometimes nothing makes sense. nothing is scaled. Everything is scattered. The coordinates in the 3D shaft are set to the build up plate so you can ’ t even match parts up. But D03D ( and some others ) actually scaled their parts by rights to reference material proportions. immediately this automatically means it basically won ’ t fit anyone “ out-of-box ” but it gives you a service line to work with. “ Oh ! That ’ s how that should look ! ” With these set and scaled by rights you can work up from there. There even exists a fantastic programs called Armor Smith that lets you make a 3D avatar of your own body to help you size and scale 3D parts before you print them. This is an invaluable cock I can ’ metric ton recommend adequate ! But alas I didn ’ t take my own advice. I took a different route. I printed everything ( except the hands ) at 100 % scale. Turns out DO3D models the Iron Man files at roughly 6ft improbable. But i am no 6ft tall man. I am 5 ’ 8″ ( in the dawn ) but I AM on the more “ fit ” side. My design going into this to avoid that curiously scaled hurdle was to print everything then make MYSELF fit into IT. alternatively of the other room around. This required a bunch of trimming, sanding, heat warp and some 3″ weightlifter inserts in my 1″ list boots to get me to the proper acme. And it worked ! If you want more explanation on my own method of scaling Watch this video recording here !
How do you fuse the parts ? What glue do you use ? You ’ ll besides notice I have some very large prints joined in concert. I in the first place used a 2 partially CA glue until my armor stall fell over one day and broke the chest and bachelor of arts on my become. Luckily it was before I painted and it forced me to revise and learn a new method acting ; PLA Welding. now it wasn ’ thymine new but it was new to me ! I don ’ deoxythymidine monophosphate use glue. Super Glue, Epoxy, CA Glue ; none of that when it can be avoided. I just use a superintendent brassy $ 5 soldering iron to fold and melt and interlock the parts. You can even use consume filament and failed printed as filler material to close gaps and strengthen the joint ! Depending on how comfortable you get at this you can even close up gaps on the OUTSIDE of the prints and smooth over appear lines before you sand and paint ! Or one ’ ll use some super bum Wood Filler to close up the gaps and fill in any holes. Bondo Spot putty is besides great but actual 2 separate bondo can be debatable and crack if the plastic flexes besides much. It ’ s a debauched way to ruin a good paint job. This dance step is extended greatly when you use a smaller printer. Again, it ’ sulfur possible but you can imagine how many more seams you need to weld and fill .
How did you get it so legato ? Did it print like that ? You must have sanded that for weeks ! I ’ ve heard it all. And even had arguments about it being called a liar. I don ’ t think something has sol much argument in the print community quite like post-processing or sandpaper. You don ’ t need to spend days sanding 3D Prints. aside from an obvious print quality requirement there are a pair ways you can speed up the procedure of smoothing out a 3D print. Spray Paint Filler Primer, XTC-3D Smooth-On, Vapor Smoothing ( No full for PLA/+ ) or my personal darling ; Power Tools. This was something very frown upon when I started to 3D print. Everywhere I looked for tips on how to sand and smooth my prints everyone said “ NEVER USE POWER TOOLS ! ” so i took that as sage advice. Me, person who has been working on cars and models and painting for over a ten. Why didn ’ thymine I equitable try it ? Why did I wait ? I shouldn ’ metric ton have. thus after getting sick of makeweight fuse ruining my sandpaper I took the gamble and tested a hypothesis. I took a double Orbital Palm Sander with 80 gritt sandpaper to an cast-iron man masquerade. And after that one never looked back. now this obviously doesn ’ thyroxine work on everything but world does it shave DAYS off of sanding large armor parts. I literally sanded my integral suit in about 2 days and went onto flat coat and painting. It was amazing. I had been sleeping on this method acting for way to long. But be warned it takes some time to dial in ! You CAN melt parts and you CAN ruin a print so constantly practice !
What color did you use ? What ’ s the paint code ? Where did you get it ? If it ’ s a Metallic Red paint and you can buy it in the UK ; I own it. I went through days and days of testing and paint and comparison and clear coat and so many damn fictile spoons trying to dial in the proper colors. But one wanted this to be arrant. It had to be perfect. And why yes ; my entire courtship is atomizer painted. It ’ south what I knew and what I was good at. possibly one day I ’ ll upgrade it. This is something people frequently neglect. The measure of messages i received while building this asking what colors I was using and where to get them was insane. Stop asking. No, not because one won ’ t share it ; I will ! It ’ south because you most probable don ’ t have access to them. Or you live in a different climate. A different environment. Hows the humidity ? temperature ? Do you have a paint booth ? A cold garage ? so many variables play in when painting you NEED to test it for yourself. Find your own colors. Learn what works for you. Because my red and your red may look worlds apart evening if they ’ re from the same can. And that ’ s before we flush talk about Metallic paint. many metallic spray paints can ’ t take a lacquer clearcoat ; It ruins it ! sol testing these combinations of paints is CRUCIAL. I ruined the paint job on an entire arm because I got cocky and didn ’ metric ton test my new pass coat on the Gold and Red .
I ended up landing on a combination of a UK particular Rustoleum Automotive line of spraypaint. It was perfective. The 2X loss was just a base coat for the Metallic red. And all 3 colors could take a lacquer coat just fine . After all of the paint and clearcoating was arrant one actually went over everything with automotive grade polish products ( Meguiar ’ sulfur patron me please ! )
This truly brought out that deep radiance the lacquer had to offer. I started with rubbing compound then moved onto a resin polish. Followed by THE BEST smack car wax ever ; Meguiar ’ s Gold Glass. It besides helped add a small small small layer of protection from dirt and scandal. possibly. credibly. But hey international relations and security network ’ t it shiny ?
How is everything attached ? Can you walk in it ? What did you use ? Let me start off by saying I messed up adult prison term here. I skipped this step before I painted and I regret it every day. I was besides tidal bore to paint my become and get results I didn ’ t spend enough fourth dimension right here in this period fitting everything properly. It all “ largely fit ” so iodine went right ahead and painted it. If you take one thing away from this ; ANYTHING ! Fit the entire suit before you paint a single thing. No, actually. Please. It may seem obvious to some and i know that. You may get confident like I did. But I implore you, just take your time and make sure you are 100 % comfortable in the entire lawsuit before you start painting. I had to make many adjustments after the fact but now i had to worry about damaging the paint. It was not worth the concern. But with that said… I think I did a adept job. I spent a distribute of prison term sandpaper and trimming the edges of the parts with a Dremel to help it wrap around me better. I had made another choice early on ; I didn ’ thymine want gaps. No opening. No seam. No visible body parts in the Costume ( within rationality ). It was something that always bugged me about Cosplays one saw. But I 100 % understand it ’ s a matter of mobility. To increase mobility you NEEDED gaps and openings, I know that. But I sacrificed mobility for accuracy and I ’ meter approve with that. I can still do the typical poses. I can walk. I can move. But sitting ? That was never an choice. And don ’ metric ton ask me to touch my nose . What you see here is the very early stages of my beefy system. It was a lot of trial and error ( and duct magnetic tape ) of adding and moving straps. I used very cheap nylon and elastic straps from Amazon along with plastic buckles and clips. I then began to incorporate magnets and Velcro. I spent months revising and editing and improving the system for quilt. I finally landed back on much simple system to the matchless I started with. It ’ s a draw to cover but here ’ s a basic description. -Shoes have covers over top
-Shins are free-floating and remainder on the shoes
-Thighs are held up by a brace system over my shoulders.
-Cod Piece is one solid part and wears like underwear ( my butt keeps it in locate )
-Back is literally a backpack that hooks over my shoulders and the lower spinal column tucks into the cod/butt piece
-Chest has velcro on the shoulders that connects to the “ hooks ” on the backpack. then velcro on the sides hook it under my arms and waist.
-Shoulder Pads nip into the shoulder part of the breast and hang free for mobility.
-Biceps nip into the shoulder partially of the chest of drawers and hang.
-Forearms are spare floating like to the shins. Allowing for more twist and flexibility
-Gloves are…Gloves And that ’ s about it ! If you want to see more on this you can check out This video on Strapping and Harnesses side note : CA glue works BEAUTIFULLY on elastic and Nylon when fusing it to PLA and PLA+
I ’ m gallant of this one. I have zero idea how to code and program. And if you start a google search for Iron Man electronics and motorizing an iron homo helmet you ’ ll cursorily realise a batch of it revolves around Arduinos and Micro-controllers. All of which I have no estimate how to operate. And to be honest I had no intention of memorize ( even ) But what I do know very well is 12V DC systems from my automotive background. I know relays and triggers and LEDs and latitude circuits. This I could do. This I was good at. So I started in on it with a goal… 100% Analog Iron Man Suit And I know that seems cockamamie ; just learn to code ! But it became a goal. Could I motorize a helmet with no arduino ? Could I wire up the integral body inner light system ? Could I incorporate finger controls ? Yes, yes I could. I besides decided to do this for another reason ; Programming is intimidating. And iodine know for a fact that it can scare a draw of people away from things like this. It ’ second chilling ! So if i could at the very least make a method acting that would get people in the door ; why not ? Help get their feet wet and dabble into electronics. They could then grow into it and expand. That ’ south besides what I plan to do . The systems are actually very basic. And the fact that one found a 12V USB carry still blows my mind but it works ! And that ’ s entirely to power the 12V COB LEDs iodine consumption. One day i ’ ll downgrade them back to 5v Piranha LEDS but MAN are they bright. queerly adequate i actually use some Arduino based sensors and triggers except one ’ thousand good hijacking the signals for relays . The other challenge was getting an Iron Man helmet to open and close with no program. Enter The Hotwired Micro Servo. now I was by no means the one to invent this but the tutorials for it were bad. Like adjacent tied bad. Basically I ’ thousand turning a Micro-Servo into a DC centrifugal. now, why not just USE a DC motor ? Because that lapp reason of upgrading. I always planned to move onto arduinos and if the system I install with hinges and brackets already used a servo then it ’ s an easily barter ! I went through a batch of testing and methods from Reed Switches to DPDT switches but if you want to see how it all comes together and can be applied watch this : Motorizing an Iron valet Helmet The systems and features in my suit include :
-13x 12v COD LEDS ( White ) wired in Parallel to a 12V USB pack
– 2x 12V COD LEDs ( White ) in the palms that turn on when a trigger in my wrist it activated by tilting my hand back.
-6 Colored 12v SMD lights ( Infinity Stones ) Wired in Parallel to a 12V USB Pack
-2 Clear Acrylic LED Cosplay Eyes powered by a 5v USB pack that turn on when the mask closes mechanically.
-2 Reed switches in the leave hand to control the open/close of the helmet limited by triggers on the faceplate
-2 hotwired micro-servos controlling the facemask powered by a 5V usb pack
-1 Reed switch in the right cursor to control a Flip-Flop relay that turns the LED eyes on/off
-1 Reed switch in the right in-between feel to control a Flip-Flop relay that turns the Infinity Stones on/off ( like a snap )
-1 Thermal distribution system interlaced throughout the suits exterior for high-level trajectory in resistance to cold temperatures and ice .
The Infinity Stones few words can describe good how gallant of this thing I am. It was the focal orient. The centerpiece. The main attraction. The process and idea was actually reasonably directly forward. I saw people who had just 3D printed color stones. Or people who printed stones in net PLA formative and backlit them with LEDS. Well the Infinity stones aren ’ thymine gain. I wanted them to look nice on and off. tone 1 : mark the fictile masters of the stones to proper scale and make resin-safe silicone moulds for them. step 2 : Buy means to much resin dye and spend a few days testing different colors and combinations. Find the best 6 step 3 : Mix some net resin with the resin dye and decant into the moulds. Let sit for 6 days because you didn ’ thyroxine use enough hardener. step 4 : Pop them out and let them sit even longer because blasted ; you actually should ’ ve used more hardener. step 5 : install and backlight the Resin Stones with color particular extremely bright 12V SMD lights so you can down passing aircraft from the flat coat. step 6 : Don ’ deoxythymidine monophosphate Snap. Ever. Could the Mind pit be a small more yellow ? Could the Soul Stone be a spot more orange ? Yeah. But I ’ ll survive. I ’ m hush super proud every time I look at them. The Arc Reactor Okay I lied. THIS was the centerpiece ( literally ). One of the most recognizable features on any Iron Man suit and I wanted it to have depth. So iodine took a like approach to the Infinity Stones plus some extra layers. I first gear took the maestro print of the nuclear reactor cover and resin roll it. But as you can see it came out brumous as all hell. then one utilized the like methods used when restoring and cleaning the headlights of a car ! Lots and lots of wetsanding. Plus some supernumerary buff for clarity. It worked like a charm and gave me a beautiful near-glass like reactor cover that fit like a boxing glove Next was the depth. I found a release file on Thingiverse ( it ’ south gone now ; good-for-nothing : / ) and printed out the inner detail depart of the reactor. then I trimmed it to fit better inside the breast. After that I printed a small triangle human body on a HUGE batch in clear PLA formative to mimic the reactors nano-texture. then finally I suspended 3 12v COD LED boards behind it about an inch from the clear PLA to help diffuse the light and bang ; Arc reactor ! I feel this adds such a nice little detail to the befit. It ’ s not just a frost lens with a unaccented. Or brumous fictile. I ’ m in truth gallant of it .
Resources and Tutorials
There is thus a lot more I didn ’ metric ton cover. Things I ’ ve already forgotten I did and methods I ’ ve always improved upon but I hope this was an good summation of the serve.
If you in truth want to watch the entire journey and see basically everything I ’ ve talked about in real clock I invite you to watch my advance in the follow series. I promise, make it through the first few videos ; My production choice goes up. Becoming Iron Man – A 3D Printed Cosplay Armor I started documenting this work when one was bright eyes and bushy tailed. I was uninstructed and had no estimate where this would take me. I found this harebrained and fantastic new avocation that puts the things of caption and fantasy at our fingertips. 3D impression has literally changed my life and I ’ thousand trying to do my best to give back to the community that received me so openly. It will in no manner ever make up for everything that has happened and the benefits or rewards I ’ ve received but I promise I ’ ll cover to try. If you ’ ve made it this far down I appreciate it more than you know. Thank you sol much for reading and I truly hope this helps you or anyone induce started on a 3D printed or ANY cosplay for that matter. If you very like my cosplay and want to see some more of it I invite you to view this video.
hypertext transfer protocol : //www.youtube.com/embed/ZaWZgZHlJ_Q ? wmode=opaque & start=10
Oh yea ! My Cosplay besides equitable recently habit Comic-Con @ Home ’ s Online Masquerade ! So that was pretty cool ! Thank you! Below is a TL ; DR adaptation of the station with the resources laid out a spot better. love ! 3D Printing Information Helmet Files : Akira Yumming MK85 ( A much more movie accurate file over the one provided with the suit files )
become Files : DO3D Mark 85 Armor ( The store files are roughly 6ft at 100 % scale ; besides, be very very skinny ! )
Gauntlet Files : DO3D Mark 85 Infinity Gauntlet ( I had to scale the gaunlet down to about 90 % ~ to match the befit scale )
Printers : Creality CR-10s – 300x300x400mm build volume ( 2 printers used ) ( This is the minimum build up size iodine would recommend or else you ’ ll be cutting a LOT )
material : SUNLU PLA+ Black Filament ( Approx 15 rolls ( 1kg each ) Including waste, failures, and re-prints )
Printer Software : Cura 4.0 w/ Creawsome Mod, Slic3r, Meshmixer ( New Cura 4.7 has Creawsome built in ! Works great ! )
Settings : 215/50 nozzle/bed, 0.6mm beak w/ .3mm layer altitude, 60mm/s, 5 % infill, Rafts, Tree Supports Time : Approx 1200 hours of printing sum
scaling : 100 % scale ( Scaling can be super crafty, I explain in this video how iodine went about it ( or didn ’ t ) but for a great scale resource try The Armored Garage ! ) Post-Processing Information Sanding : I used 80 Gritt sandpaper on an Electric Dual Orbital Palm Sander. Followed by 200 gritt by hand ( For more Info. Click ! )
Fusing : To join print parts back together that iodine cut, i use a bonding iron while adding lost material from waste prints. ( For more Info, Click )
Priming : I used standard atomizer paint flat coat. Black, grey, red. Whatever was cheapest. You can try filler flat coat but one ’ thousand not a fan. ( For more information, Click ! )
Painting : Rustoleum Automotive Line Spraypaint ( Metallic Red, Metallic Gold ( Dull ), and Sky Grey ) ( For more information, Click ! )
Clearcoat : Rustoleum Automotive Line Spraypaint Clearcoat Lacquer
Post-Work : I wetsanded my rouge after the final color coating with 1500. then again after the final clearcoat with 3000. After that one used Meguiars Automotive Rubbing Compound, Polish, and Gold Class Wax to protect and shine the key. Electronics and Extras LED Cosplay Eyes : I used pre-made diaphanous LED Acrylic Cosplay eyes from Ebay ! Click for more !
Infinity Stones : I 3D Printed the stones then made silicone moulds and cast them in Color Resin
Infinity Stone LEDs : My resin cast Infinity Stones are backlit with Pre-Wired LEDS from Oznium.com !
Servos for Helmet : I repurposed Micro Servos to run with no tease or Arduinos ! Click here !
Hinges for Helmet : The MK85 is unmanageable to motorize. I got creative and secondhand these hinges to do so !
Body LEDs : I used standard 12v COB SMD boards from eBay. But i recommend a 5v LED system
Cosplay Wearables : I used a kind of Nylon/Elastic straps, plastic buckles, and magnets to wear. ( Click hera for more ! )
Read more : Catwoman (Telltale Batman Games)
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